The Essential INCI Guide for Lip Care

The Essential INCI Guide for Lip Care

Bad INCI's - No Thanks!

Lip care products are absorbed directly through your mucous membranes—straight into your body. That includes everything from iconic budget lip balms to luxurious designer glosses that give you that irresistible shine.

This is why it’s so important to know exactly what’s in your lip care and what’s better left on the shelf. Some ingredients do far more harm than you might realize.

Don’t let the jungle of ingredient lists overwhelm you—with a bit of structure, you can spot the nasties at a glance. Use this checklist to make informed choices about what’s truly good for you and what’s not.

Allergens: Common Nasties in "Clean" Cosmetics

If you have sensitive skin—and 60% of people do—opt for products with short, simple ingredient lists. Fewer ingredients mean fewer chances to irritate your skin. Allergens are surprisingly common!

INCI: Lanolin

  • What is it? A wax derived from sheep’s wool.
  • Why is it used? It’s a popular moisturizer that protects lips from drying out.
  • Why avoid it? In 2023, the American Society of Dermatitis named lanolin “Allergen of the Year.” It often causes allergic reactions, leaving users stuck in an endless cycle of reapplying without real relief.

INCI: Sulfites

  • What are they? Sulfur-based compounds often used as preservatives in natural or "clean" cosmetics.
  • Why are they used? To prevent microbial growth.
  • Why avoid them? Sulfites can cause allergies or irritation, just like lanolin.

INCI: Synthetic Fragrances

  • What are they? Chemicals like limonene or citronellol (anything citrus-sounding) used to add fragrance.
  • Why are they used? To enhance the sensory experience.
  • Why avoid them? Synthetic fragrances can trigger sensitivities or allergies.

Preservatives: The Bad Ones to Avoid

INCI: Parabens

  • What are they? Synthetic preservatives.
  • Why are they used? To stop bacteria and mold growth.
  • Why avoid them? Parabens mimic estrogen, disrupt hormones, and can cause allergic reactions.

INCI: Formaldehyde-Releasing Agents

  • What are they? Preservatives disguised under names like DMDM, Quaternium, Methenamine, Imidazolidinyl, or Diazolidinyl Urea. In medical settings it is being used to preserve tissue. 
  • Why are they used? They slowly release small amounts of formaldehyde to prevent bacteria and mold.
  • Why avoid them? Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen. Many people see "urea" and think it’s harmless, but in this form, it’s not!

INCI: Benzophenones

  • What are they? Chemical filters like benzophenone, oxybenzone, or octocrylene with UV-blocking properties.
  • Why are they used? To protect lips in SPF balms and extend product shelf life.
  • Why avoid them? Linked to hormonal disruptions and skin irritations. While mostly banned in the EU, they’re still common in the U.S.

The Really Bad Stuff: Hidden Toxins

INCI: Aluminum

  • What is it? A lightweight metal used as a binder or color enhancer.
  • Why is it used? For vibrant, long-lasting color and durability. Even aluminum packaging can leach into products.
  • Why avoid it? Aluminum is a neurotoxin that damages the nervous system. Since we often ingest lip products without realizing it, the risk is even greater.

INCI: Mineral Oils

  • What are they? Petroleum-derived ingredients like paraffinum, petrolatum, or cera microcristallina (microcrystalline wax).
  • Why are they used? To create smooth, creamy textures at a low cost.
  • Why avoid them? Some components are carcinogenic and can accumulate in your body over time.

INCI: Heavy Metals in Colorants

  • What are they? Toxic metals like lead, cadmium, nickel, mercury or arsenic are found in pigments (e.g. CI 15850 is Carmine Red, CI 16035 Red, CI 19140 Yellow, and CI 77163 Lead.)
  • Why are they used? These metals unintentionally end up in colorful lipsticks and glosses because they naturally accumulate in the pigments. Despite strict safety standards, trace amounts of arsenic, cadmium, and lead are still permitted as long as they are technically unavoidable. Tip: High-quality products undergo rigorous testing to minimize heavy metals. 
  • Why avoid them? Heavy metals are highly toxic and build up in your body, leading to serious health problems.

Environmentally Harmful Ingredients

INCI: Silicones

  • What are they? Synthetic compounds like cyclopentasiloxane or cyclohexasiloxane.
  • Why are they used? For a silky texture and smooth application.
  • Why avoid them? Silicones are not biodegradable and harm the environment.

INCI: Microplastics

  • What are they? Tiny plastic particles labeled as anything starting with "poly" (e.g., polyethylene, polypropylene).
  • Why are they used? To add shine and bind ingredients together.
  • Why avoid them? Microplastics pollute ecosystems, enter the food chain, and accumulate in the body.

Quick Tips to Spot and Avoid Nasties

  • A short ingredient list is always a good sign, especially if you're in a rush.
  • When shopping online, take a moment to search for ingredients. You’ll know instantly if that dreamy red lipstick or shiny balm is worth it—or better left behind.

x Caroline

 

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